Friday, October 3, 2008

The Mysterious Land Of The Incas

Oct 3 - Friday

Well it´s been a whle since our last update as we´re much too busy (or sick) to find the time. Since our last blog entry we climbed a 200 foot sand dune, which had an amazing sunset, toured the Ica wineries-pisco factories (where upon arrival we find out our taxi drvier is the tour guide and he loves to drink more than show us around) and had a 14 hr bus ride to Cusco (which in Peruvian time is actually 16 hrs, 17 hrs when you include the stop to weld the broken undercarrage of the bus... that´s what we get for taking a $10 cheaper bus line). Because we knew the journey was going to be so long, we decided to book first class seats. During our stay in first class we find out that you can use the bathroom only for number 1 business, not number 2. Dammit. Also, we were advised to dress warmly as the trip gets very cold. After all, we are climbing to an altitude of 3500m. So we adorn ourselves in Alpaca sweaters and toques only to find out that the radiator is broken and it´s blasting heat into our very tiny first class cabin for 10 hrs. So we arrive in Cusco late, tired, sweating and searching for a bathroom. The bus station has one, but they charge to enter and they charge extra for toilet paper. Of course, we have no change and Peruvians don´t accept bills over a 50 note without a hassle. See, this is a common problem for us because the banks only give us 100 notes and we can´t argue this in spanish. Well, Kevin can but it´s very in-effective as a common frusterated sentance for him goes like this. ¨I DON´T UNDERSTAND YOU. WHAT DO YOU MEAN YOU CAN´T BREAK MY 100¿ GIVE ME EL CHANGE-O. I HATE YOU. NO COMPREDNO. ACCEPT MY DINERO AMERICANO.¨

The first 2 days here, Lisa was super sick and wasn´t able to leave the hostel. Kevin would kindly wander about and find soup to bring back to the hostel and then we´d spend hours watching TV or playing cards. The nice woman who runs the hostel noticed Lisa looked like shit so she came up with tea. She was a super nice lady.

Anyhow, we failed to inform you of our fabulous English counterparts we met in Huycachina during the free booze fest. We figured they weren´t worth mentioning as we´d probably never see them again. Turns out that during our 3rd day in Cusco, minding our own business in the city square, Ben and Katie turn up out of no where and promptly direct us to the nearest English Pub so we can catch up on the 4 days we´ve been apart. Over a pint, the 4 of us decide to take a 4d-3n Inka Jungle Tour to Machu Picchu.

While we´re waiting to leave on our jungle hike, we spend our time ATV-ing and horseback riding. ATV-ing was awesome, Lisa had never been before but was a natural and even got some air on some jumps. Kevin on the other hand manged to find himself a Peruvian MotorCross track tucked behind some rolling hills in the middle of no where. He took a few laps and kids from a nearby school field trip swarmed and applauded him. It´s funny how Kevin is fearless when multiple horsepower is involved but a tiny horsey scares the crap out of him. He did okay, but he didn´t allow the horse to trot. No no, that´s much too fast.

MACHU PICCHU
Day 1 - We took a 4 hours bus ride to an altitude 4500m to start our adventure. It was supposed to begin with a 5 hour mountain bike trip downhill to the town of Santa Maria. Unfortunatly we were informed that it would only be 1.5 hours because it was raining so hard and the gravel road on the second half was much too dangerous. (It´s funny how they worry about the road conditions but they don´t worry about the bike conditions. Two of the bikes were totally shot. Ben was kind enough to take Lisa´s bike that didn´t pedal. It was okay though because it was completely downhill anyways and all you had to do was coast. Then then guide gave Lisa his bike and took the bus down behind us instead. Turns out it was actually only raining for the first half so not only did we get absolutely soaked, but we noticed the second half was so much safer that we actually saw little old Inca ladies riding their bikes as we were wet and crammed in a bus. Everyone on the tour raged but what can ya do when the guide that supposed to speak English, doesn´t. This is the story of Peru.
Day 2 - At 630am we start our 25km hike. We were explained that it´s mostly flat, which is why we booked this particular tour, but it´s not flat, it´s Andean Flat. Straight up, straight down and repeat. We were dieing about 10min behind the rest of the group because A. we´re totally out of shape and in way over our head and B. Kevin´s ankle swelled to the size of his boot. So 2 tours in we stopped for a break to re-hydrate and re-apply bug spray as we´re all getting eaten alive by the millions of sand flies. It comes to a point where Lisa has to put her bandana over her face as the flies enjoy going up her nose to bite. So five hours in we get lunch. Kevin figures he can get a taxi to the next town but the ¨English¨speaking guide says he can´t but it´s okay because it´s ¨No problem si¿ It´s flat. No problem¨ Kevin sucks it up as walks 2 more hours to the hotsprings. We arrive at our hostel after our relaxing soak and find that our hostel is made of nothing more than mud bricks and a tin roof. Our English friends find finger nails in their bed, some Danish sisters find a scorpian in their room and Kevin and I can´t sleep because there was what we thought to be a monkey on our roof scratching at the tin and banging on the walls. Well, it sounded like a rat but had the strength of a monkey.

Day 3 - Once again, we figure Kevin can take a taxi to the next town and rest his ankle so he can enjoy the 4th day at Machu Picchu. We talk to the guide, he says ït´s no problem si¿. It´s flat. We walk. No taxi because no roads.¨ He advises us that we would head towards the train tracks and Kevin could catch one there for only $8. (Mind you, we left at 8am and get the train station at 830am) Upon arrival, our fantastic guide says that the we can wait for the train on the side of the road until 420pm because that´s the only time the train runs. So of course, Kevin sucks it up and decides to walk 3 hours instead of waiting for 7. We arrive at Aguas Callientas excited for the hotsprings that are here as well. We were greatly dissapointed. Not as nice as the other ones we went to, these ones smelled, were dirty and had a sulpher yellow tinge. But we plunged in because now both of Kevin´s feet need to soak. His good foot was covered in blisters because it´s taking all the pressure off of his swollen foot.

Day - 4
530am we catch the bus up to Machu Picchu. Words can´t describe what it´s like ... so check out the pictures. It´s super interesting and really beautiful. We have the whole day there and head back to Cusco by train at 6pm.

Off to Bolivia! We´ll write more from there.

1 comment:

Chris and Gary said...

So glad to hear some recent news. Someone here was getting worried. Sounds like you guys are having a blast. Too bad about Kev's ankle. I'm sure it wasn't effected when Lisa was catching some air on the ATV's. Maybe you can get a prescription for some Pisco. Rub some on and it should feel better? If not take another swig. Machu Picchu looks amazing, Can't wait to see a ton of pictures when you get home. Write more soon, we check every day. GARY